UKC

Brooke Raboutou climbs The Traphouse, 8B/+ in FontainebleauVideo

© Finn Stack

Brooke Raboutou has made what appears to be the first female ascent of The Traphouse (f8B+), at Cuvier Rempart in Fontainebleau.

Whilst Raboutou reported the ascent as an 8B, the consensus seems to be that the boulder is a notorious 'slash grade', lying somewhere between 8B and 8B+, as proposed by the first ascensionist, Paul Robinson. Raboutou was able to get the ascent within a single day of working the boulder.

Brooke Raboutou on The Traphouse, 8B/+  © Finn Stack
Brooke Raboutou on The Traphouse, 8B/+
© Finn Stack

Whilst the majority of previous ascensionists reach the lip of the boulder by keeping their left hand low and committing to a long and powerful right hand bump, which forces the feet to cut loose, Raboutou found an alternative beta.

Instead of bumping the right hand from a small crimp, Raboutou used a slightly lower mono finger lock for her right ring finger, which allowed her to reach the lip with her left hand whilst keeping her feet on throughout. For context of these differing styles, you can see Nathan Phillips' and Ryohei Kameyama's ascents here and here.

Late last year, Raboutou's brother Shawn shared news that she had almost made an in-a-day ascent of Box Therapy, an 8C+ boulder established by Daniel Woods at Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. As yet, the only female ascent at 8C or harder is Horizon, climbed by Ashima Shiraishi in Japan.

The Traphouse is Raboutou's tenth boulder at 8B and above, with four at 8B+.


This post has been read 2,289 times

Return to Latest News



Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support - UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

22 May

Great looking problem, amazing climbing (how heinous does that ring finger lock looks), yet, it’s the music choice that made it for me. Needs to find that!

23 May

Top ascent. 54% vote grade as F8B, however considering her height, F8B+ is well deserved. Should be exciting to see how many more she can rack up.

Perhaps worth mentioning that this is the direct version of Gourmandise, which itself is F8B. Let's not lose the history of climbing. Also the slash grade is a reflection of opinion. The problem is still F8B+, as yet downgraded.

Truly heinous! 🤯

8 Jun
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email