Not sure which forum to post this in. Is it climbing, trail running or hiking?

Anyway, I'm hoping to do this at Christmas. I won't be able to get a partner so going solo.

Just wanted to know if I can bypass the "obligatory" abseil so I don't have to carry harness and rope etc.

Any other solo beta is welcome.

Cheers,

E

In my limited experience I'd say "No, take a rope". I've also been there in Feb and the ridge had ice on it (on the north side), so you may want to factor that in.

Others may differ.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bernia-1692/

Loads of photos here.

Just reading logbook entries, it seems one abseil is considered obligatory. Someone claims to "have avoided all abseils" but some else explicitly disagrees with that comment (which, anyway, could mean "all optional and avoidable abseils", as people are often not very precise with their comments). I would guess on the basis of the logbooks that a 40m half-rope would be an asset on first acquaintance, as it seems that either one abseil is necessary or else that it is hard to find a way around.

There's no reasonable alternative to the main abseil that I could see.

Earlier on there was another short but very exposed downclimb onto an arete which I abbed as well since I had the rope.

The bolted 4c pitch is about 30 feet up, then an easier hand traverse along the fin. I took some slings in case shenanigans were needed but ended up just soloing it. The rest of the ridge was fine in approach shoes but I switched to rock shoes specifically for that pitch, I'm sure there are folk who don't bother but I was glad to as it's quite delicate face climbing.

Otherwise keep an eye out for the well travelled route, devious in places but you'll get your eye in. I had to backtrack from dead ends a few times.The red splashes are getting quite faded and intermittent.

A couple of climbers were downclimbing the first abseil when  we were there. Not sure about the ones after that as they were ahead of us by this point. I wouldn't  be comfortable downclimbing even the first one but then I don't  really like soloing. It would depend how confident you are and your appetite for risk. 

Done it twice , both times solo.

Going east to west, the usual direction, the route was well marked with paint dots the second time I did it. Presumably still there but did spoil the route finding challenge .

I never managed to avoid one abseil so best take a rope , 50m fine. 

The only climbing section was OK in approach shoes. Crux low down above a wide ledge. Far more exposed on other sections of the ridge.

Worth looking at numerous earlier threads about  the ridge on UKC.

Usually i like to bypass abseils if possible (even if its stupid to do so) on ridge scrambles so i had a look if it was possible. Reckon it would involve downclimbing 8-12m of vertical 6a-6b terrain with no gear - also could be loose as didn't look like it had been climbed. 

The supposed crux of the route however was straightforward for 4c and is short and not exposed so soloable. 

This is also a good solo Segaria Main Ridge (4a) but i made 1 or 2 abseils again. 

I agree with all the posts here, I couldn't see how to avoid the abs we did two I think. We soloed most of it.

The crux is two steps which is not 4c in my view. I barely climb vs but led it in my trainers.

The climb put of the crux was a but loose mind but technically about diff.

Whole ridge is mega chilled

i've done it a few times, always abbed the main one 20m,  to downclimb looks more 6c to me. I am under the impression (ie i thought i'd read soewhere) that you can continue along the ridge at the ab station but it's at least 6a and i dont know what's at the end of that section as i've never looked.   

4a max (IMHO) - not that that would make much difference to Enty

I've also seen people walk along the top of the fin! Gulp!

I've traversed the Bernia many times and always done the 'obligatory' abseil as it's made most sense to do so. I have looked at the alternative - which would be to stay on the crest - but looks pretty sketchy, so never done it.

With care, a 35m rope is just enough and will bring you onto the upper part of the ledge system below the ab station.

As a route it makes a very good solo day out for anyone happy and confident on exposed terrain with some technical sections. Route finding is relatively straightforward too.

There are plenty of other ridges in the region, some don't require abseils. The Toix ridge, which is part of the same rock system as Bernia, can be done without abseils. Or for a much bigger day out, check out the Benicadell ridge, no abseils required on that one either.

For more ideas have a look at: https://www.cicerone.co.uk/costa-blanca-mountain-adventures - which is on a sale price at the moment.

Hope that's helpful

Great info. I was driving past last week and your name got mentioned by one of the Alcalali lads who I was climbing with.

To everyone else - thanks for answering. Looks like 40m a rope and harness coming with me. No biggie.

E